There’s always an element of anticipation when opening wrapped presents, especially those bound with ribbon, but drooling isn’t usually part of the unwrapping process! However, untying and peeling back the steamed banana leaf of a properly made ducana will make the recipient drool each and every time.
A ducana, sometimes referred to as a dumpling, is like a sweet West Indian pudding that has been wrapped, tied and then steamed or boiled in a banana leaf. Popular throughout most of the Caribbean these special treats, also known as “Blue Drawer”, “Conkie”, “Tie a Leaf” or “Dukunoo” originated in Africa. “Dukunoo” comes from the West African phrase “Doka nu”, which means “sweet thing” or “sweet mouth”.
Those who claim that traditional ducanas are simple to prepare should be drawn and quartered because they are NOT easy to make, at least not if they have been prepared properly! Today’s cooks have the option of using store-bought coconut milk instead of making fresh, and wrapping the mixture with aluminum foil instead of banana leaves. I personally would rather have scraped knuckles from grating than use desiccated coconut, and those who attempt to grate the coconut in a blender with water are in danger of spoiling the mixture. Ducanas take time and patience, from the steaming of banana leaves and grating of ingredients to the making of fresh coconut cream, and shortcuts are ill-advised.
Different islands use different ingredients such as cassava, tannia and cornmeal, but the Vincie ducanas I’m familiar with are usually made with grated sweet potato, fresh grated coconut, a bit of flour, sugar, coconut milk, raisins (optional), ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and essence. This mixture is scooped onto pieces of steamed green banana leaves, then tied firmly with banana stems or twine to make a watertight package. This is easier said than done, but in my book the lazy use of aluminum foil is a definite “no-no” and I am sure the old-timers would agree! These tightly wrapped parcels are then steamed or placed in boiling water until the contents are firm, about 20 – 25 minutes, then cooled slightly before opening.
Ducanas are versatile due to their starchy sweetness. They can be served with stewed fish and meat or as a dessert, and leftovers can be sliced and fried, or eaten cold. They’re delicious, filling and quite inexpensive to make as long as fresh local ingredients are used. Ducanas, perhaps because they take a while to make, are not as common on Bequia as they used to be and that’s a shame, because opening and then eating one of those aromatic parcels is a definite treat, drool and all…..
