It’s not often I find myself restless on Bequia, the privilege of living in such a beautiful place has always gone hand-in-hand with contentment. However, once Covid-19 led to the cancellation of any and all travel plans, I found myself itching to get away from “De Rock”, at least for a little while! A “Vincy” friend suggested a get-away to the mainland for a few days, and urged me to consider booking a place called “Spirit of the Valley”.
“Come” she said, “I’ll take time off and show you some cool places”.
On researching the rental property she had recommended, I discovered that it was located conveniently close to the Vermont Nature Trail. The accommodations looked quite nice; one was called “Strong House”, the other “Nirvana”, and both promised glorious views of a tropical paradise. I booked the larger of the two so that our friend could stay with us, and prepared to leave Bequia with mounting excitement.
Nik and I packed the car with an ice chest filled with food and drinks, then boarded the ferry early; check-in time at “Spirit of the Valley” wasn’t until 3:00, and we had decided to explore the Leeward coast’s beauty throughout the course of the day. It was a lovely drive along the coastal road once the morning traffic had eased, and we stopped often to admire the scenery. Our final destination was Darkview Falls, a site I had never visited and had been looking forward to. The facility at Chateaubelaire had closed for the day (due to the total lack of tourism no doubt) but we were able to find a way in, and enjoyed the rickety bamboo bridge and gushing waterfall in solitary splendor!
We arrived at our accommodation, happy to see that it was situated in the foothills of Grand Bonhomme at Buccament Valley. Our friend had assured us that we would like “Nirvana”, but I was blown away by how magical it was! The property was incredibly picturesque; lushly-forested mountains served as the backdrop for a garden filled with fruit trees and tropical blossoms, providing an ambience that far exceeded my expectations. The small house we had booked was simple yet elegant, blending in with nature’s foliage to ensure peace as well as privacy. I loved it!
The following morning, we set out for “Table Rock” with our friend acting as guide, toting cold drinks and sandwiches to see us through the day. Located close to the entrance of the Vermont Nature Trail, the rushing river was just a short hike from where we had parked. When I spotted the powerful water pushing over and around massive boulders I was thrilled, what a beautiful place! The smooth rocks offered some welcome heat; the river was extremely cold, and we alternated dipping in the water, then warming up on the stone slabs. The pull of the flow was quite strong, and I kept a tight grip on the rocks as I bathed to ensure I wasn’t washed away by the water cascading so rapidly downhill. It was a wonderful spot for a picnic; we sat on sun-warmed rocks and happily munched sandwiches, watching the hypnotic surge of the water as it rushed powerfully towards its destination. The area was surrounded by mango and breadfruit trees, and we had it all to ourselves. However, people HAD been there recently; I was disappointed by the unsightly garbage left by others who had obviously enjoyed a cook-out on the rocks, saddened that anyone would desecrate such a pristine piece of nature so thoughtlessly.
From Table Rock we hiked for about 20 minutes to a waterfall emptying into a large, shallow body of water. It was like a tropical rainforest grotto, quite unlike Bequia in every way, and we enjoyed the fresh-water cascade until the sun disappeared and the chill set in. I would have liked to explore the Vermont Nature Trail, but it wasn’t open during the few days we spent at “Spirit of the Valley”. However, I could hear the parrots calling to each other, and their voices added an extra dose of magic to an already magical place. We’ll repeat our visit some-day, because mainland St. Vincent is a beautiful paradise just begging to be explored. What they say is true; a change IS as good as a rest, and that short trip did me a world of good!
Hi Judy, thanks for sharing the photos and story of your day trip. I am Vincentian born but only lived there for a few years (76-78 and 84-86). Dad worked for Barclays, and we moved around a lot (St. Lucia, Antigua, Barbados, St. Kitts), but most of my youth was spent in Bequia. Over two decades ago, my wife and I hiked the Vermont Nature Trail before vising my grandmother in Lapompe, but I am embarrassed to say I don’t know much about Dark View Falls.
Thank you for sharing such a magical place with us — I hope to visit it some day!