The annual Carriacou Regatta is held during the first week in August, an event that reflects the importance of the island’s seamanship and boat-building. Although it belonged to Grenada, I had heard that Carriacou was very much like Bequia, but I had never visited the Island. Evidently one stretch of land on the north side of Carriacou belonged to St. Vincent, a rather bizarre result of colonial days. I believe that small piece of land was eventually given to Grenada, it didn’t make sense otherwise!
Having participated in Bequia’s Easter Regatta, I was enthusiastic when Nik suggested we charter a boat and sail to Carriacou for the August weekend. Vanessa and Rachel were keen to go as well, especially when I told them they could invite their friend Bret to come along. We booked a sailboat from Barefoot charters, which Nik and Mac’s brother Nolly collected from the mainland while I organized provisions to see us through the four-day event.
We set out with high spirits, an excursion was just what was needed to chase away the doldrums of Bequia’s summer season. There were three experienced sailors on board (Nik, Nolly and Sylvester Simmons), more than enough to ensure we arrived at our destination intact! With wrist-bands in place to hopefully ward off sea-sickness during the long sail, I settled happily in the cockpit and looked forward to experiencing a different part of the southern Caribbean.
We had a lovely trip through the Grenadines, with the children taking turns at the helm. It was a beautiful day, perfect for a day-sail, and although not a particularly good sailor I enjoyed it. Once anchored in the shelter of Hillsborough, we ate dinner and went to bed, the children on deck, adults down below.
The first thing I noticed the next morning was the heat, it was incredibly hot and the cockpit offered little shade. I also noticed that nothing on the boat seemed to be working, and that’s when Nik discovered that the battery had somehow been drained during the night. That hiccup was resolved thanks to Orbin Ollivierre, but we didn’t realize that Bret had left the bathroom sink tap open while the battery was dead until the galley was flooded with water. Life on a boat was a learning curve, for me as well as for the children, and I was relieved when it was time to head ashore.
Nik in his wisdom decided that the children had to learn how to operate the dingy engine, which excited the three of them tremendously! After teaching them patiently, which included man overboard drills and knot-tying, he was satisfied with their skill. They were told not to pester the grown-ups for rides to and from the boat, they could do it themselves whenever the need arose. This arrangement suited everyone fine, but as a mother I confess it made me nervous!
I had assumed that it would be cooler ashore, and I was wrong. It was hot, hot HOT, and unlike Bequia there were few shade trees to offer relief. Festivities were underway, and the children were soon highly entertained by the greasy pole contest, card games and other fun shore activities. Vanessa laughed when she saw a donkey walking down the street, this sure didn’t resemble the Bequia Regatta! When asked if she wanted to enter the wet t-shirt contest she innocently queried what that was, which had everyone laughing; Vanessa didn’t realize that her budding bosoms had prompted the invitation to compete!
I don’t recall seeing any boats racing, although Nik assures me they DID race the first day of the regatta. The weather was SO still on the second day, with not a ripple on the water and no wind to fill the sails, and although the boats sat on the beach ready to race in the sweltering heat, they waited in vain. Everyone drank copious amounts of beer and rum instead; there were several people from Bequia at the regatta and, because of the lack of sailing and the numerous bars, they drank a lot and then drank some more, ensuring a successful week-end for the rum shops!
It was Pat Mitchell on board Pelangi who raised the alarm about a tropical system heading towards the Windward Islands. The approaching storm accounted for the hot, still weather, it had indeed provided “the calm before the storm”! It was generally agreed by those from Bequia that it would be wise to scoot before it arrived, it would be unwise to be caught by such weather. The early departure the following morning cut our excursion to Carriacou short, we had planned to stay longer but Mother Nature had dictated otherwise. We had to motor the entire way back to Bequia, making me grateful for the lovely wind that had filled our sails on the way up the Grenadines.
I guess I will have to return if I want to experience the Carriacou Regatta, August of 1995 was not the year for it!